Blue Jeans and Flannel Shirts
I did not 'invent' this pattern, but saw a picture of it on someone's website (I don't even remember what website it was!) I figured out a method of construction, but do not know if this is the way the original was done. The following is the way I do it, but others may have seen other methods.

In teaching this class, most people have made the quilt out of old blue jeans and flannel shirts. But it can also be done in any flannels and cottons.

If you make it out of blue jeans, check garage sales and thrift shops. Some thrift shops will even give you jeans that are not in good enough shape to sell. If possible, get the extra-extra-large jeans-you get a whole lot more fabric!! Have all of your fabrics washed and pressed. If you are using fabric other than denim, you need to remember to have contrast between your 'circle' fabric and your 'square' fabric. Lights for one, darks for the other is easiest. Your 'circle' fabrics need not be exactly the same, but should have something in common, for example: all darks. This makes a good stashbuster scrap quilt.

First, we will make a sample block. The materials needed are:

1/3 yard 'circle' fabric, denim or cotton, either one fabric or an assortment 1/4 yard 'square' fabric, flannel or cotton, the more prints the better 1/4 yard thin quilt batting Thread that coordinates with the 'circle' fabric Cardboard or template plastic

Using the template patterns, make a template of the circle and the square. For the sample block, cardboard works well, but the edges will wear if you use it too long. When you make your bigger quilt, plastic works better, as it doesn't wear.

Your sample block will end up being approximately 13 inches across. If you are ambitious in your quilting (as I usually am!) you can figure out how many blocks you want to do for the size quilt you want to make. A sofa throw is usually the easiest to start with. For each block, you will need 16 circles and 16 squares. The reason we work with modules of 16 circles is because if you work much larger you end up looking like you have been in a catfight, due to the number of pins you would have in the piece! Trust me. I know from experience!

When marking on denim, I usually just use a ballpoint pen. For other fabrics, use a pencil or whatever will show up. Using the circle template, trace 16 circles on the BACK of your circle fabric (denim or whatever). Cut out all 16 circles. Place one of the circles wrong side up, and center the square template in the middle. Trace around the square. This will be your stitching line.


Now, use the square template to cut 16 squares of flannel or cotton. Set these aside and use the square template to cut 16 squares of batting. Let these all aside.

Take 2 circles and place them face to face. Match the stitching lines at the edges and pin. Sew across one line. Sew remaining circles in the same manner, so you have 8 pairs.




Open up all pairs, and match and sew into 4 sets of 4 circles long.




Open up all sets, and put 2 sets face to face. Match stitching lines at each end of the strips and pin. The remaining edges of each circle are matched at the existing seam joint, so you don't have to match the lines. Sew across. Repeat with other 2 sets of 4. Sew the 2 sets of 8 together in the same manner, so you have a square of 16 circles.






Press all circle 'petals' open, then press on the back.


Put a square of batting and a square of flannel/cotton in the center of each circle. Cover the square edges with the circle 'petals' and pin in place. Leave all edge 'petals' open. Pin squares in place on the edges, though.




You will be sewing the 'petals' down in an 'S' pattern, starting at the edge of one of the seamlines. Sew in an 'S' shape to the other side, pivot the block, and sew your way back in the 'S' shape. You will sew about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch at the widest part of the 'petal', but will taper it down to sew directly through the centre of where the 4 circles meet at the seam. The stitching does not have to be exact, as this is a very forgiving block! After it is all done, you will be washing and drying it to fray the edges on the 'petals', and that will cover a multitude of sewing sins!


After sewing all of the circles, you can either finish this block and call it a table mat, or go ahead and work all of your other quilt blocks to this point.

If you are going the 'table mat' route, you can finish your block by folding in the edges to cover the squares, pinning them in place. Then sew all around the edge in a 'C' pattern instead of an 'S' pattern. It is like sewing little scallops. When I am done, I usually sew an 1/8 inch topstitch all the way around the outside for stabilizing, but it isn't necessary.

If you are going to make a quilt, gather all of your blocks together. You will be making rows of blocks, then sewing the blocks together. For example, say you are making your quilt 5 blocks by 6 blocks (approx. 65 X 78 inches). You will need 30 blocks. Lay out 5 blocks, and sew them one to the other in a row the same way you sewed your strips of circles together, matching seam joints. Fold the 'petals' you just sewed over the edges of the squares, and sew in the 'S' pattern. You are still leaving outside edges open.









Sew your 6 rows of 5 blocks, and then you will sew your rows of 5 together as you sewed your blocks together. It is just a longer seam.

After all rows are sewn together, it is time to seal the edges. Fold the 'petals' of the square, and pin. You will sew them all down using a 'C' pattern instead of an 'S' pattern, making little scallops. After doing this I usually topstitch 1/8 inch from the edge for stability, but it is not necessary.






Now, through the whole thing in the washer (make sure to put a lint filter on the water outlet), then the dryer. It may need a haircut when it comes out.




If you are not happy with your seam joints, sew over them a little more, or sew on a button (looks very nice, but not for babies!). I like the fuzziness at the joints, and leave it.

Click here for printable PDF template..... PDF Order Form

Be sure to print the PDF at 100% for accurate template size.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Cathy Brose      Cathy@threadbenders.com

My blog:  http://www.threadbenders.blogspot.com/

© Copyright 2007-Catherine Brose-All rights reserved.