This is the fourth in a series of figure making articles that deals with making a cast head for a professional-style ventriloquist figure. This particular article will deal with the making of the support shell or 'mother mold' that helps hold the shape of a rubber mold. The previous article discussed how a latex rubber mold for the head can be made.

   There are a number of materials that can used to make a mother mold. What will be shown here is how a fiberglass mother mold is made, as I have had many ask how this is done. There will be a few more pieces to this mother mold because of the configuration of the latex mold (special set-up to eliminate having to glue two cast halves of the head together later). If you follow the steps through carefully, hopefully this will all start to make sense.

   General purpose polyester resin and 1.5 oz. mat are the materials used to make this particular mother mold. These can be purchased at a 'resin supplier' or 'boat building' materials supplier locally. You can also purchase them from the 'Fiberglast Corp.' listed below (click on link). They also have a lot of good info about fiberglassing on their web site. For a mother mold you only need the one type of resin. Gel coat and/or surface resin is not necessary.

   The basic steps outlined here could be done with other materials such as plaster, plaster bandages, and urethane paste (a newer mother mold making material). Urethane paste can be obtained from 'Smooth-On' or 'PolyTek' listed below. It is a lot more pleasant to work with than polyester resin and less of a potential hazard to your health. (*click on RED button below for Safety Information)

   For this mold, the first step is to make two temporary clay walls. One down the middle of the face, and one down below the left ear as pictured. Put some clay behind the ear as well. This area will not be supported by the mother mold as it is not critical to do so. (This is an old mold maker's trick, from an OLD mold maker! <G>) The keys on the clay are cut out 'bubble stock' from A-R Products (see 'Mold Making'). The keys will align the mother mold pieces when complete. A thin layer of Vaseline over the latex and clay wall (keys too!) will keep the fiber glass from sticking. Don't forget to do this!!

   Mix polyester resin per manufacturer's directions. It is much easier to work with fiberglass mat if you lay it down in a poly tray, brush resin on it and let it soften first. The longer the resin sits on the mat, the more pliable the mat becomes. If you wait too long, it falls apart. I used 4" X 4" inch squares of cut fiberglass mat for this project. Using smaller pieces around the keys helps the mat to conform better.

   Apply the mat with resin to the mold, overlapping the pieces by 1/2" inch or so. Use a disposable 2" bristle brush to dab all areas of the resin soaked mat against the latex, working out air bubbles as you go. Takes a little patience, but with a little diligence, all bubbles can be eased out. Do not use a brush with synthetic bristles. The polyester resin will dissolve them!

   After the first layer is complete, mix up more resin, this time with some pigment (I use ordinary concrete dry pigments; ask your resin supplier what to use). The color will help make sure you don't miss any spots on the second layer. Two layers will make a very strong, lightweight shell. Complete the first half of the front and the back of the head (trap door) with 2 layers.

   In the next article we will complete the mother mold and show how it is demolded in preparation for casting. Click on 'Mother Mold Part 2' below or click on button to go to the next article.

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