Figure Making Can Be Fun - Articles

   When the first part of the front of the head has completely set up, remove the clay walls and make one more clay wall below the right ear this time (also filling in behind the ear with clay). Apply Vaseline to the latex and clay wall. Apply some paste wax to the now-exposed fiberglass flange of the first half of the mother mold front, and let dry. Then apply Vaseline to this area too. Apply mat with resin to this part of the mold, same as in Part One.

   When the mat and resin you just applied has fully set up, remove the smaller clay wall near the right ear. Now all that is left to fiberglass is the back of the neck area and the latex flange that's still exposed. Apply some paste wax to the exposed fiberglass flange of the front of the mother mold, let dry, and then apply Vaseline to this area and the latex.

   For this project I made a metal frame to hold the mold in an upright position when completed. This is certainly not necessary, but it makes the mold easier to work with. This should be done immediately after the fiberglass on the back of the neck has just hardened. Do not wait too long or you will get a poor bond. The metal frame is first glued to the fiberglass with 5 minute epoxy (local hardware store item). Then resin and mat are applied over the frame and fiberglass area covering the neck, to permanently bond the frame to this part of the mother mold.

   Trim the outside edges of the mother mold pieces prior to removing them from the latex mold. A 'Dremel Moto Tool' with a 'fiberglass disc' cutting wheel works good. Sand the edges smooth. Take extra care as the fiber glass edges can be very sharp! Wear a dust mask while cutting and sanding. Use wood or plastic wedges to gently pry the mother mold pieces apart.

   A sharp pair of scissors is used to cut around the outside edge of the latex flange as shown. This will expose the edges of the plastic shim material, making the latex easy to remove. Peel back the flange area on both sides and remove the plastic shims. Remove the trap door latex next. Finally, peel back the main part of the latex mold. The latex is turned inside out as you pull it of off of the clay model.

   Continue pulling the latex mold carefully off of the clay model and wood armature. Keep going until it is completely inside out and finally comes off of the control stick. Latex is a little 'green' so to speak initially, so try not to over stretch it. Put a little talcum powder on the inside of the mold (that was against the clay) before turning it back right side in to elimate any tackiness.

   Examine all the individual pieces of the mother mold and look for any areas on the outside that need any further trimming. You will sometimes have little 'shards' of mat and resin sticking out which can inflict much pain! Sand or file these off as necessary.

   You can then reassemble the latex mold inside the 'mother mold' and verify that everyting fits together nicely. Make sure it does not pinch the latex mold anywhere and that the latex is completely back right side in. Let it cure for two more days prior to doing any casting in the mold. Small 'C' clamps can be used to hold the mother mold together.

   A mother mold needs to be well made. If it is not, the rubber mold that it is supporting it can be distorted, thus making distorted castings. So take your time and do a good job! Always strive for quality work. The next step is to actually make a casting in your new mold! The link below on 'Casting' will take you there or click the button to go to the next article.